The Die Was Cast - My Journey to New Guinea

News items from Bougainville

The Bougainville Aftermath

For your listening pleasure: TAIM BILONG MASTA

70 years of PIM are now available on the internet - click here

A new online library servicing the Pacific: digitalpasifik.org

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23 September 2019

Along the Sepik


Set on the Upper Sepik River in New Guinea, this film records the day-to-day experiences of Kiap (one-man representative of the Australian government in regional areas) Barry Downes as he patrols an area that in 1963 had only recently been brought under control from headhunters. As well as being a record of the role of the colonial administration, Along the Sepik offers insights into some tribal communities' cultures through depictions of their spirit houses and traditional 'sing sing' ceremonies.

Downes investigates a murder, and the culprit is caught and tried by a magistrate in a jungle courthouse under the Australian flag, on the edge of the Sepik River. Australian patrol officers and their men operated under rugged conditions to bring western law and order to this remote area. The film also portrays some of the impact the colonial government had on regional, traditional communities.

This and several other movie clips are available from the National Film and Sound Archive of Australia - click here.

 

22 September 2019

All that praying never paid off

 

A few clips by Adam Constanza, a travelling "content creator"


Adam shot a number of clips on and around Bougainville. They're no the Bougainville of old but the Bougainville of now. For more (of the same), click here

 

John Laws' Bougainville


 

Journalist Sean Dorney returns to his beloved PNG, perhaps for the last time


... and don't we all know how he feels!

 

21 September 2019

Rudyard Kipling and Joseph Conrad had nothing on them


"In Australia I sickened of the urban life, the crowded rush to work in the mornings, the tiresome after-work booze-ups at the pub and the predictability of my future. I’d spent five years in advertising. I was now an account executive doing the bidding of my corporate masters, selling the American dream that had become Australia’s. My initial fascination had become a curse and no longer was I interested in the shallow search for unique selling points and catchy phrases, the pretty pictures and the jingles, selling capitalism to the masses.

As I observed the careers of my fellow workers grinding relentlessly toward retirement, I felt a dark cloud descending and as it thickened around me I struggled to find a way to escape. I thought about inland Australia where mining companies paid well and life was rough in the desert. I considered joining the army, something to initiate and toughen me and help me escape the malaise I felt. But the war in Vietnam was in the headlines every day and Australians were dying in a distant struggle that made no sense to me and I quickly dropped the idea. And then, one day, an old school friend suggested Papua New Guinea.

We were having lunch at a pub when he told me about patrol officers, young men employed by the Australian government taming the wilds of Papua New Guinea. Suddenly the cloud lifted as I realized that perhaps this was the answer, a way out; overseas travel and adventure, all paid for by the Australian government.

Immediately I began reading to learn as much as I could about this faraway place and applied to become a Cadet Patrol Officer with the Australian Department of External Affairs. It would take six long months before the invitation for an interview arrived.

Rudyard Kipling and Joseph Conrad had nothing on James Sinclair and Jack Hides, Ivan Champion and the other great explorers who wrote of their adventures in Papua New Guinea; who’d disappeared behind the ranges and into the swamps and vast inland valleys deep in unexplored territories on the second largest island on Earth."
Click here to continue.

Indeed, Rudyard Kipling and Joseph Conrad had nothing on them and all those who came to New Guinea in search of adventure and a less-than-ordinary life. Not all were as eloquent as Andrew Leslie Phillips in the article above but all can relate to his words, "In Australia I sickened of the urban life, the crowded rush to work in the mornings, the tiresome after-work booze-ups at the pub and the predictability of my future.".

Andrew became a 'kiap', or patrol officer, in New Guinea and also spent several years on Bougainville; I was a "Bank Johnny" in Australia and became an audit clerk in a chartered accountants' firm in Rabaul, then went to Bougainville, then Port Moresby and Lae, and travelled all over New Guinea which became "home" to me like no other place.

A lifelong friend from my New Guinea days who, like all of us, had to return to Australia but struggled to fit back in, put it rather well when he said, "My spiritual home will always be New Guinea."

Perhaps this struggle is something we all share. I, too, still think almost every day about those many faraway places in which I lived and worked. The years spent there have left me unsuited in many respects for life in the deep south. I feel suspended between my past life in the islands and my present life in mainstream Australia, and I still seek a place where I can feel truly content.

Perhaps I will always remain AN OUTCAST FROM THE ISLANDS!

 

The Closure of Bougainville Copper Limited's Mine: Lessons for the Mining Industry

Here is Allan Manning's thesis of October 1994. Pretty "dry" reading but a good summary of the facts: click here.

 

20 September 2019

Bougainville before the conflict

"One of the most beautiful group of islands of the south-west Pacific, with a population estimated to be less than 200,000 in 2005, and a human occupation of almost 30,000 years, Bougainville has had a remarkable history. Apart from one significant known wave of migration about 3,000 years ago, Bougainville and the nearby islands to its south and east — where peoples of similar language, culture, and appearance live — remained in virtual isolation until European interventions in the 19th century."

More good reading for those who want to know more than what's written up in the tabloid press: click here

 

18 September 2019

21 days and 11 ports

What a cruise! 21 days and 11 ports: Brisbane, Alotau, Conflict Islands, Madang, Wewak, Rabaul, Kitava, Gizo, Honiara, Luganville.

Sailing from Sydney in April 2021, so you have plenty of time to save up for it! And when you're ready to book, go to Princess Cruises, go to the drop-down box "Month/Year", select "April 2021", then click on "View Cruises", then move down the next page until you come across "21-Day Papua New Guinea & Solomon Islands".

And, no, I'm not on a commission but you can always buy me a beer in the Wheelhouse Bar when we meet! Until then!


 

The Bone Man of Kokoda

Okay, this has nothing to do with Bougainville and the Bougainville Copper Mine but who am I to get in the way of a good story - indeed, who am I? - and "The Bone Man of Kokoda" is a cracking good yarn:

"The Bone Man" is Kokichi Nishimura, a member of the 2nd battalion, 144th Regiment of the Japanese Imperial Army. In 1942 he fought along every foot of Kokoda as the Japanese attempted to take Port Moresby. He was the only man from his company to survive the campaign. As he was evacuated to safety he made a promise that one day he would return to his comrades and bring them home to Japan for proper burial.

After the war, Nishimura prospered. But under the surface, the driving ambition of his life was to fulfil his promise. In 1979, he shocked his family by returning to New Guinea to search for the remains of Japanese soldiers. For the next 25 years, Nishimura lived alone along the Kokoda Track. Armed only with a metal detector, a mattock and a shovel, he searched for his dead comrades. Over the years he found hundreds of them - some he was able to identify and return their bones to their families; others were unknown, and their remains were sent to Japan's official shrine for its war dead in Tokyo.

In 2005 Nishimura, now in his mid-eighties and seriously ill, was forced to return to Japan. His story is an incredible adventure that gives us a radically different viewpoint on a battle that has become part of our national myth. Nishimura's life and quest above all offer a poignant reminder of the futility of war.

In 2010, already in his 90s, he returned one more time to Kokoda to help find the jungle grave of a WWII Australian captain who was killed for taunting his Japanese captors - click here.

He died on October 25, 2015, aged 95.

Read more of this cracking good yarn in these sample pages or listen to an interview with the author, Charles Happell: