The Die Was Cast - My Journey to New Guinea

News items from Bougainville

The Bougainville Aftermath

For your listening pleasure: TAIM BILONG MASTA

70 years of PIM are now available on the internet - click here

A new online library servicing the Pacific: digitalpasifik.org

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13 December 2021

What's on your Christmas list?

 

I'd love to get back to Camp 6 again and sit in the boozer under a moonlit sky, drinking 'Swamp Piss' and staring out to Number One island, arguing with my mates, "Look, there's a big ship coming in!"

Good ol' days! Of course, they were good ol' days because we were young then and not the decrepit old self of today, with false teeth, on the waiting-list for an artificial hip, and ready for a triple bypass.

Meri Krismas! Gutpela Nu Yia long yu!

 

P.S. Two books for your list: "Mr Pip" and "They Call Me Ishmael".

 

1 December 2021

They Call Me Ishmael


No, it's not "Moby-Dick"!

 

Set in the South Pacific and based on true events, this is a novel about war, gold, interracial friendship, and the emergence of a new nation.

Growing up in Bougainville, an island archipelago in the South Pacific, Ishmael always wanted to be a soldier. The Crisis—a brutal civil war with Papua New Guinea ignited by the gargantuan Panguna Mine—gives him his chance. As the guerrilla leader of the Bougainville Revolutionary Army, Ishmael secures a peace agreement that provides his islands with a measure of autonomy and the future right to conduct an independence referendum. If the people vote affirmatively, Bougainville could become the newest nation on earth.

In the aftermath of the Crisis, Bougainville’s corrupt and inept government causes a vacuum. From its perch across the Pacific, China salivates. They covet Bougainville, both for its Panguna Mine and its strategic location, and are prepared to do whatever it takes to grab it.

When Ishmael and Bougainville’s chiefs ask Jack Davis, a pin-striped American investor, to help rebuild their economy, he is intrigued. Although primitive, Bougainville holds billions in gold and copper, and its people seem lovely. Jack’s life has been comfortable, but things are changing. His family members have moved on with their lives, and his country doesn’t seem to value people like him anymore. Maybe Bougainville would be different.

That two men—one black and one white—from totally different walks of life could meet on a remote island and decide they stand for the same things is a testament to Bougainville and its people, and shapes a story that anyone who believes in the innate goodness of humanity should read. The fact that it all really happened is truly inspirational.

You can order the book online at amazon.com.

 

21 October 2021

Mister Pip

 

After the trouble starts and the soldiers arrive on Matilda’s island, there comes a time when all the white people have left. Only Mr Watts remains, and he wears a red nose and pulls his wife around on a trolley; the kids call him Popeye behind his back. But there is no one else to teach them their lessons, and no books left to learn from—except for Mr Watts’s battered copy of Great Expectations, ‘by my friend Mr Dickens’.

As Mr Watts stands before the class and reads, Dickens’s hero, Pip, starts to come alive in Matilda’s imagination. Soon he has become as real to her as her own family, and the greatest friendship of her life has begun.

But Matilda is not the only one who believes in Pip. And on an island at war, the power of the imagination can be a dangerously provocative thing.

A dazzling achievement, "Mister Pip" is a love song to the power of storytelling. It is about belonging and losing one’s way, about love, grief and memory, and it shows how books can change our lives forever.

If you've lived and worked on Bougainville, you must read this book. Beginning today, I shall add a new chapter to this blog, courtesy of www.archive.org:

 

Continue reading here (simply SIGN UP - it's free! - then LOGIN)

 

18 October 2021

My Valley is Changing

 

... and my life changed, too, after my years on Bougainville!

 

6 September 2021

China's growing influence in PNG?


Click here

 

The PNG Philatelic Bureau has issued a warning to collectors to avoid bogus PNG stamps emanating from China.

 

 

Kokoda Track

For those who did it, bittersweet memories (moi included!);
for those who haven't yet, as a warning!

 

Alan Wilson emailed from Newlands Arm in Victoria:

 

This memorial Bougainville Copper Project website is now more than fifteen years old. Quite soon after its first appearance on the web, Alan Wilson added his name to the "Honour Roll" which he followed up recently by emailing me,

"The location entry for Alan Wilson BCL Power Station Loloho (1971 to 1974) is shown as East Doncaster. I have moved twice since then; once to Ballina for 4 years, and now at Newlands Arm in Victoria, beside the Gippsland Lakes. I still read your blogs from time to time, with great interest. It seems that as time goes on the activity is slowing, which is to be expected. It is hard to believe that last month saw the 50th anniversary of my landing on Bougainville, which changed the rest of my life. I remember from a farewell party in Australia those 50 years ago, one of my friends said the only difference between a rut and a grave is the dimensions. I think that I have lived my life, after Bougainville, remembering those words. Keep up the good work. Alan"

To which I replied,

"Same here, Alan: fifty years ago it was when I went across from Rabaul to Bougainville which changed the rest of my life; and, yes, unfortunately, the contributions have slowed down as many of us have gone to the big mine in the sky :-) I guess you must've lived at Camp 6 which would've made us neighbours without knowing it. Same place, same time. Do you have any old photographs or anecdotes you want to share on the website and blog? Ballina sounds nice; why did you go back to the Deep South? Or maybe I shouldn't ask because I finished up down here near Batemans Bay despite my always having wanted to retire in the tropics. Life happens while you are making other plans, right?"

His response wasn't long in coming:

"I lived for about one week in Camp 8, then was assigned a house in Section 11 (I think). Then there must have been too many fully air-conditioned houses, so BCL decided that the Power Station Shift Supervisors should move into these and mine was on the other side of the Bovo River. I was not complaining as it was free accommodation with all the power that we needed to run the A/C. Went through a divorce 36 years ago and lost all of my old photos in the process, so all that I have is the memories. Managed to keep my BCL ID Tag which has a photo of some guy that I don't recognise these days. We decided to move up to Ballina about five years ago as we have our children scattered around the country and Ballina was a bit more central than a Melbourne suburb. Then the humidity seemed to become a bit of a problem as we were getting older. There was a fair bit of vegetation around our property and adjoining properties which seemed to attract the mozzies. So that was two strikes against living so far north. Then came the task of finding an alternative and we finished up beside the Gippsland Lakes. We actually started to look for somewhere to live south of Sydney and just could not find anything that suited us. Eventually, we crossed the border and found our new home with an outlook across the Gippsland Lakes. Never sure just how long we will live here. It could all depend on how long we have on this earth. Cheers Alan"

And he enclosed this print-ready story ...

 

Bougainville - A 50-Year-Old Experience

What a challenge for a young guy with a family to simply pull the roots out of Australia and move up to a tropical island. This is exactly what happened in August 1971, now fifty years ago. Then to get on my first commercial flight to get out of Australia, dressed in a three-piece suit and tie (what was I thinking?) Walking down the aisle of the plane after landing in Port Moresby was a wake-up call about life in the tropics. Off with the jacket, waistcoat and tie and up rolled the sleeves. Then onto the Fokker Friendship with thirty-five others and we were on our way to Aropa Airport, south of Kieta.

The road up from Kieta was being improved and there were dozers there to pull vehicles up the hill, if required. The mud was pretty thick at the time. Remembered having to stop just out of Kieta (I think it was Kobuan) to be signed into the project, before we continued on towards Arawa and Camp 8, where I spent the first week on the island. The Power Station was headed up by Tom Worth as Superintendent, John Dutton the Operations Manager, and Henry Pearson the Maintenance Manager. The Operations Group was mainly recruited from Australia and the UK, which provided the experience required and was considered to be a really smart move by the management team (I was recruited as a Shift Supervisor after leaving Hazelwood Power Station with eight others). The first boiler/turbine/generator on line was Unit 2 and I remember the message that was sent by the Bechtel Commissioning Manager to Panguna saying that Unit 2 was on-line generating 2 MW with 43 MW available. My memory is that this happened on 13 November 1971.

Life in Arawa was very different with no TV and Radio Australia until the sun went down. Sunset was at 6.12 pm, or so it seemed as there was no twilight. It got dark very quickly. We tried to amuse ourselves with the occasional party on a Saturday night when we would hang coconut palm fronds under a house to create walls to provide some sort of privacy. The music would be loud and there was always enough to drink. A boat trip out to Arovo island was always special with the snorkling providing a look down over the edge just off-shore. Shopping was at the trade-store in Arawa, or a drive to Kieta for something a bit different. The Post Office and Commonwealth Bank were set up and in the early days this was about all that could be found in the commercial area of Arawa. Then we could get newspapers from Australia even though they might have been one week out of date. The roads were all dirt with plenty of potholes. Then the company started to get the roads sealed from Kieta to Arawa and then onto Loloho. The mine access road was sealed and this made such a difference to everyone on the project. Schools were established, the hospital was operating, the Country Club opened up and we actually had a doctor living in Arawa (Fatini Weber was her name, I think).

Bougainville provided so many people with the opportunity to get out of their ruts. I remember a friend saying at my Australian Farewell Party in 1971 that the only difference between a rut and a grave is the dimensions.

 

... and a photo with the following description:

On Number 3 Island off Loloho. Some of the names of the people in the photo - which was taken by Theo van der Meulen *) - are:

Boat on the right: Irene Watts, Rosa van der Meulen, Mark van der Meulen, Nicole van der Meulen, Sian van der Meulen, Gavin Watts, Chick Healy, Eric Healy

Boat in the middle: Alan Wilson, Linda Wilson, Ian Wilson (with his arms up), Lisa Wilson

Sorry, but I can't remember the others.

Cheers
Alan Wilson

 

*) By the way Theo van der Meulen lives in Traralgon. We have maintained a group of four who left Hazelwood Power Station in 1971 and went to Bougainville. The group consists of Theo (Traralgon), Jim Watts (Geelong) Don Houston (Lara) and myself. We get together at least once a year, but this COVID-thing is providing quite a challenge to maintain the group.

 

Malcolm (Mal) Paterson, Director Projects & Business Development of 3RE Group Australia emailed:

Dear Peter

I hope you and your family are well and relaxed in thought that the current covid madness will be soon gone.

I love your RiverBend Nelligen web pages and thank you for keeping us informed so well and for so long.

I wanted to give you and all our Bougainville friends some information on our progressing project to clean-up the Jaba River tailings mess, which for too long has had a terrible impact on our mates living on Bougainville near the Jaba River, the Bana District and nearby.

Happy to hear from you all.

Kindest regards

Mal
E: mal@3REGroup.com.au
C: +61 (04) 7778 3734
Resources • Recovery • Remediation • Environment
www.3regroup.com.au

 

Click on image to enlarge

 

16 August 2021

William Ashworth emailed from Brisbane:

Bill Ashworth today, 82 years young, and fit as a fiddle

 

Hello, my name is William (Billy) Ashworth and I was the very first operator (dozer) to start the very first road construction from Kieta to Nairovi Camp -???- onto Panguna, around about 1965 or 1966, not sure now.

There was only a small hotel and a big hall there then, and the managers at the pub were from Charters Towers; can't remember their names now, sorry. The hall was for the missionary or minister, and I remember his broken-down landrover being carried by a hundred legs underneath it, as the Rotokas natives - Rorovana natives??? - brought it back to the hall, all yelling and singing, kids running around everywhere; lovely bedlam at the time.

I operated a Euclid C-6 crawler tractor for a Frenchman from the Solomon Islands. I was there for about six months. The Euclid C-6 ended up burning out in a creek while I was pushing up gravel and then I started operating a Caterpillar D8 for Utah - ??? - for the rest of my time there.

 

P.S. from Webmaster: Bill phoned me again in late October to say he's sending me a USB-stick full of Bougainville stuff to put up on the web. Stay tuned!


And here's his final write-up, warts and all:

"I'll start here to get my years right, this happened between 1965 to 1967.

I came home from New Zealand in 1965 and went to Mt Isa mines operating machinery in the old open cut. In 1966 Delta Construction were hiring operators to go to the Highlands in New Guinea. Four of us got the positions and flew to Moresby, Lae to Mt Hagen, where I saw my first sing-sing - very colourful, very primitive and dangerous; we were scared. Went into the Villages of Minj and Banz and did roadworks in the mountains. Delta Construction lost their contract, and we were laid off as the new American company brought in their own personnel.

On my way home I had to stay in the Moresby Hotel a few days waiting for my flight and I met up with the Manager, Matt Martin. He employed me as a helper with accommodation thrown in. The government had just allowed locals to drink in a boi bar, and we would fill the bar floor with lots of sawdust. We had two fire hoses either side the bar. They couldn't hold their liquor, and at closing time 4pm, we'd hose and skid out drunken locals, broken glass, piss, shit, etc. It was dangerous as they threw everything they could pick up back at us, before we could close the big doors. I got plenty of stiches at the hospital. I'm just glad they never had machettes.

While working there a Frenchman saw me (the name Gubbay rings a bell; I only met him once for a short time) and asked if I would operate his new dozer at a new mine on Bougainville Island, and I took the job. There wasn't much at Kieta then. I remember a small hotel and a big hall, plenty of coconut, palm trees, lovely beaches, and the place was full of natives, with villages down the beach.

I was put up in the hotel. The managers of the hotel (his name was John but I can't remember this surname - Williams or Miller - nor his wife's name) came from Charters Towers Qld, not far from where I was born in Home Hill, and we became friends straight away. I was there for about a week before the engineer, Matt, turned up. I'm pretty sure the contracting company was Utah Construction (but I also worked for Utah in NZ so maybe I'm mixed up). The engineer took me to a hill behind Kieta where I could see an old zig-zag road that had been cut some time but was in bad shape. He told me to clean it up to a drivable state so he could get to me with fuel etc.

When I finished, I started on the road that followed an old track. I noticed the natives cleaning up and stacking mortar bombs on the side of the road, I heard later on the army took them away and blew up some of the live ones. I was lucky as I could see where my dozer plates had scored some of them. Lucky they didn't blow up under me. I carried on till I run out of the old road, clearing the jungle and forming a goat track road.

The engineer said, "Keep going until you run into two old thatch huts called Nairobi camp, and wait there for me." I carried on using some of the flagging that was left. Anyway, the locals knew where the huts were. When I reached there, we went back to Kieta for a few days. A small ship had come in with lots of stuff and a few more personnel.

I got an old truck, and with four locals loaded it up with materials, drums of fuel, oil, a wood stove, bedding, table and chairs and other stuff. We went back to the camp and unloaded all the stuff. The stove, table and chairs went into one hut, bedding in the other. There were locals repairing the roofs, clearing the tall grass from around the huts, and cleaning out all the rubbish from inside.

I was then told to stay here as there was no accommodation in Kieta. I shouted, "You want me to live here with the rats, snakes etc. in these fucking disgusting huts? What about food? Mate, fuck this!" After he had talked me into stayings, he said, "Carry on, mate, until you run into a wide creek and push up as much gravel as you can, as we are going to need tons of it."

So we started to clean up my hut. The beds were old army style with a very hard mattress, one pillow. I only had two pairs of shorts and three black singlets, and two pairs of thongs. I didn't bother shaving, I had a toothbrush but no toothpaste; instead, I used salt. Had no boots or shoes; worked in thongs. With no fridge, most food was in cans and tins, although there were plenty of eggs. The truck would go down to Kieta every second or third day, so bread would be brought back then. It wasn't that cold at times, and after the first couple of nights I had a mosquito net brought up quickly as the fucking insects tried very hard to eat me alive.

I started on the road again, clearing and putting in the goat track until I reached the creek he told me about, and for a couple of days pushed up plenty of gravel, and went back and cleaned up a lot of the road back to camp. I'm not sure now but I was pushing up gravel when the bloody brandnew Euclid C6 Dozer went up in flames. It flared up that quickly, I barely made it out in time. I sat and watched it burn out. I sat on the side of the creek in the middle of the jungle dumbfounded for eight bloody hours, with a banana leaf over my head as the locals boys do to keep the rain off, until the truck came back to pick us up.

Back to Kieta, John the publican tried to call the owner many times for about a week. He said he knew him very well and that he was a good bloke and would pay my wages and everything else, accommodation food etc., but no booze. He would take that out of my wages when the money came in. He gave me a bed in a lean-to just out of the rain and attached to the hotel.

Matt said, "I've got two nearly new Cat D7 Dozers here with no operators. You ain't got no job, so why not start with me, Bill?" So I started with Matt and walked one of the dozers up to the camp and onto the creek, where I looked at the Euclid a lot closer. It had burnt out completely. Worst I had ever seen.

Started clearing and pushing up the mountain again and it was getting very steep and dangerous. I was working on a bench all the time cutting into the side of the mountain, up hill and then galloping back fast when I thought some of it would slip and fall into and on top of me. It was getting bloody dangerous as at times the slip was really big and with big trees and rocks it would envelope my track and push the dozer right to the edge. I could see down into the abyss and it scared me shitless as it skidded closer to the edge. Luckily my local workers were very fleet of foot, with that big betel nut red grin they always seemed to have, and so we went on day after day.

A few weeks later the other dozer turned up with John, an Aussie, and things worked a lot better as he could do the slips and pull me out with his PCU winch when a big slip bogged me in. It save me shitting myself trying to back out. I also now had someone to talk to and have a beer with after work. We kept the beer chilled in a very small creek near the camp. John didn't like it and was ready to quit. He kept saying, "This is too dangerous, Bill. Something is going to happen, mate, trying to push a road uphill in a mountain full of mud. Fuck it, there is plenty of work around. No use living here like a black snake, and scared all the bloody time. Fuck it, mate!"

The very next day it happened: I'd run into a very steep sharp part of the bastard, no way to drive up it let alone side cut into it. I tried this way and that but nowhere to get a track hold. There was one area that was very steep but if I could get on that ledge I could cut downhill. So I talked to john and told him what I was going to do. He said, "It won't work and can't be done; it's to steep for your PCU, Bill, and fucking dangerous, mate."

There was a high corner at right angles about 20 meters from the bottom of the hill and it dropped down to the left on the way down the mountain. John went and waited round the corner watching, shaking his head. I backed up to it, got the locals to take my wire up the hill and tied it around four or five big trees and started to back up. I got about a quarter of the way up and it dropped away. I waited a bit, thinking one of the trees had pulled out. I thought I should get out of there and started to back up again. Then I felt the hair on my head stand up, my skin tingled, everything stood still, even the air smelt different. I knew I should've listened to my body signals as they had saved me before. Then I heard the noise of the mountain falling in on me. I galloped for the corner. My wire was still attached, so I pushed the PCU into gear, screaming at myself, "You fucking idiot! You're not going to make it!" I had to get around the corner. The noise was deafening. The avalanche was screaming past me a little to my left. Something hit the back of the dozer smashing the PCU and pulling the wire out which straightened me up for a straight run out.

It took me a while to settle down with John, saying "You fucking idiot! I'm finished! I'm taking the dozer back to camp and quitting, mate! You can do what you like but I'm finished!", and walked the dozer back to camp.

I'm sure we had Christmas 1966 at the pub. We went down to Kieta, and I told Matt I'd quit as nobody can push a road up that bloody mountain of mud. I said I didn't mind working for him but I wasn't going to die for him. "I'm finished! Matt said to me, "Bill, don't go quitting on me. I've got a surprise for you: I have 22 choppers on the way here from Australia, called 'Helicopter Utilities', and we're going to dissemble the dozers down here and reassemble them at Panguna, and you can push downhill from there", and with a big smile the bastard roped me in again.

I went back to my lean-to room at the pub, then I went back to the Nairobi camp, thinking I had finished there. Matt called me back and said we are going to Panguna. We flew up there and he showed me where to cut some roads. The dozer was nearly finished.

He said, "I'm sorry, mate, but you will still have to live at the Nairobi Camp as there is no room for you at Kieta, and no accommodation yet at Panguna. A chopper will pick you up in the morning, drop you at your dozer, and pick you up in the afternoon. It will be easy now pushing down hill ha-ha-ha."

Well, I pushed a goat track opening up the road. It was a lot easier now with helipads along the way for safety. The worst part was, if it clouded in, the chopper couldn't fly in to get me out as he couldn't see, and some nights I slept in the dozer and then flew down to camp in the morning for breakfast, and straight back again. Threequarters of the way down, another dozer turned up, so there were three of us then, but those two operators had a truck and drove back to Panguna every day, as they had accommodation up there.

It's all a bit hazy from here in, as I can't remember everything properly, but I do remember finally breaking out to where I'd left off pushing uphill, to where that bastard avalanche had tried to kill me. I helped push the first loaded truck up the goat track, lifting the back end of the trailer up and around some of the sharp corners. I left that very day and flew down to Kieta and finished up with Matt. I think it as around March 1967.

That was my first time on Bougainville. I went back one more time in 1971 on a 3-months contract with MKF. I still feel I'm part of that Bougainville job. I can still see that dreadful bloody mountain vividly in my mind. I left lots of shit running out of my pants on different parts of it. It was the most dangerous job I ever did in my life, even worse than a blow-out on a offshore drilling rig. I have been through an offshore oil rig blow-out, climbed a rig derrick, and cut a boy's arm off with my pocketknife slipping in his blood on the monkey board. I also jumped out of a helicopter to save a boy from drowning in Indonesia, but he was already dead. I got nearly killed being chased by the kooka kooka tribe in the New Guinea Highlands, being shot in the mouth in Nigeria, and a lots more, but I still feel Bougainville was the worst. It tried its best to kill me.

I worked for 20 years in offshore drilling, 28 days on and 28 days off. I came home from Nigeria in 1996 after three years for "Nicotes" as Manager/Co-ordinator, for the Onne Port Vacillates, and then had a year off, spending too much, of course. I then worked all over Australia, mainly mining, living in Brisbane, then on the Gold Coast. Then in Perth for seven years on five acres which caused a marriage breakup. She was a good girl but a town girl and she hated it. She wanted a house built inside a shopping centre as she was there so much, and I lost it. We also lived in Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, and in Kota Kinabalu in Sabah for three years as a family with three kids. I now call Brisbane home."

 

28 June 2021

The Largest Gold And Copper Deposit In The World

 

The gigantic FREEPORT Erzberg job in Irian Jaya.

I was still with BECHTEL on Bougainville when they began recruiting.

What a job! What an experience!

 

11 June 2021

Gerardus Mercator has a lot to answer for

 

New Guinea is the world's second-largest island, and with an area of 785,753 km², the largest island in the Southern Hemisphere. The U.K. is a mere 242,495 km². And yet, on most maps of the world, thanks to the socalled Mercator Projection, the two seem almost the same size.

If you want to know why this is so, read Simon Garfield's rivetting book "On the Map - Why the World Looks the Way it Does".

You can read it online at www.archive.org. Simply SIGN UP (its' free!), LOG IN and BORROW, and go straight to page 125 to read all about Mercator Projection. Here's a simple illustration what a map of the world would look line without the inflated Mercator Projection:

 

Tales of Papua New Guinea

Christopher J. Eastoe

 

Chris Eastoe has written this engaging story of his short six-week stint on Bougainville Island in 1974:

 

To enlarge for better readability, click on each page.
Alternatively, hold down CTRL and repeatedly click on + - sign

To continue reading Chris's interesting tale, click here.

 

 

P.S. I did write to Chris seeking his permission to publish his story. He promptly replied, "Dear Peter, I've just spent a wonderful time looking at your blog. I am so glad that you located my stories, and included them in your blog for others to enjoy -- in the same spirit as I included Harold Elliott's story about his bombing raid on Rabaul. The stories are not in a very accessible place at present -- although you seemed to have managed to find them. My stay on Bougainville was very short compared to yours, but it was a time that has influenced the rest of my life, and not just because of the scientific research. I sometimes wonder what happened to all the Bougainville and New Guinea people I met. For the Bougainville men, the civil war must have been very difficult. The ones I knew seemed to relish the independent existence the mine had offered them -- even if the operation was wrecking their island. It would have been hard for some of them to go back and wokim gaden. I wonder if we ever crossed paths in Panguna? It sounds as though you were there when I made my visit in 1974. As you will have realized, life has taken me on a long road since those days. As part of my studies, I was able to spend a year in Nancy, France, to work on my Panguna quartz vein specimens. Eventually, a job in Tucson, Arizona came along, and I spent my professional career there. In retirement (since 2015), I have been able to spend a couple of months each year in Chinese universities, at least until the pandemic happened. I gather from your story that you originated from Germany. Where in Germany did you live? I have had a few connections with Germany over the years, mainly in the area around Frankfurt."